Maytag Dryer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: · Applies to Maytag electronic-control dryers with a display, including older Bravos and Centennial models (noted) · Sources

Maytag’s support pages list the same user-fixable dryer codes as Whirlpool — AF, L2 and PF — plus F# E# service codes. Some older Maytag dryers use a dashed format such as F-01. This guide covers 13 Maytag dryer codes and code groups.

Before you start

Note the exact code and your model number (usually inside the door frame). Codes marked Verify in your manual vary by model.

Whirlpool dryer error code table

Always unplug the dryer or switch off its breakers before cleaning the lint housing or moving it to check the vent.

CodeMeaningLikely causeStep-by-step fix
AF / F4 E3 Restricted airflow (“Check Vent”). The dryer keeps running but dries slowly. Clogged lint screen or vent; crushed or kinked duct; vent run with too many turns.
  1. Clean the lint screen.
  2. Pull the dryer out and straighten or replace any crushed duct.
  3. Clean the vent to the outside and check the hood flap opens.
  4. Touch any key to clear the code.
L2 Low or no line voltage — the heater may not turn on. Shown during initial installation. Blown fuse or tripped breaker (electric dryers use two); incorrectly installed power cord.
  1. Check and reset both breakers or replace blown fuses.
  2. Confirm the power cord was installed correctly (see installation instructions).
  3. Run a Timed Dry heated cycle. If L2 persists, consult a qualified electrician.
PF Power failure interrupted the cycle. Outage or tripped breaker.
  1. Press and hold Start to restart the cycle, or press Power to clear the display.
F3 E2 Moisture sensor issue — five loads in a row dried without moisture-sensor readings. Dryer not level; very small loads not touching the sensor bars; sensor fault.
  1. Press Power to clear the code.
  2. Level the dryer.
  3. Dry larger loads, or use a timed cycle for one or two items.
  4. Power-cycle the breaker for 1 minute. If it persists, schedule service.
F3 E1 Exhaust thermistor (temperature sensor) fault. Sensor or wiring fault.
  1. Switch off the breaker for 1 minute, then on.
  2. Start a Timed Dry cycle and watch for 1 minute.
  3. If the code returns, schedule service.
F3 E3 Inlet thermistor (temperature sensor) fault. Sensor or wiring fault.
  1. Power-cycle the breaker for 1 minute.
  2. Run a Timed Dry cycle and watch for 1 minute.
  3. If it returns, schedule service.
F2 E1 Stuck keypad button. A button held down or damaged.
  1. Press each button to free any that are stuck.
  2. Power-cycle the breaker for 1 minute and test with a Timed Dry cycle.
  3. If it returns, schedule service.
F1 E1 / F1 E4 Control unit (main board) or related wiring issue. Electronic control fault.
  1. Switch off the breaker for 1 minute, then on.
  2. Run a Timed Dry cycle and watch for 1 minute.
  3. If it returns, schedule service.
F6 E2also F6 E3 Communication fault between the dryer’s controls. Control or wiring fault.
  1. Power-cycle the breaker for 1 minute.
  2. If the code returns, schedule service.
F4 E4 Voltage supply error — one leg of the 240-volt supply is missing. Tripped breaker on one side; loose power-cord connection.
  1. Check both breakers for the dryer and reset if needed.
  2. If it persists, have an electrician check the supply.
Verify in your manual: listed for some electric models
Loc Control Lock is on — not a fault. Control Lock activated.
  1. Press and hold the Control Lock button (or the button marked with a lock) to unlock.
Verify in your manual: which button and how long
F-01 / F-02 / F-22 …older models Older Maytag dryers (for example some Bravos and Centennial models) use F-codes with a dash: F-01 main control, F-02 stuck keypad button, F-22/F-23 exhaust thermistor, F-26 drive motor, F-28/F-29 moisture sensor. Control, sensor or motor fault.
  1. For F-02, press each button to free a stuck key.
  2. Unplug for 5 minutes and restart.
  3. If the code returns, schedule service.
Verify in your manual: code meanings for your model
Other F# E# A code alternating between F# and E# means the control has detected a problem that needs service. Sensor, heater, motor or control fault.
  1. Note the exact code.
  2. Power-cycle the breaker for 1 minute and try a Timed Dry cycle.
  3. If it returns, schedule service.

Don’t see your code? Check the error code section of your Use and Care guide, or search your model number on Maytag’s product help site.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common dryer problems, in order. They apply to most Maytag dryers. Unplug the dryer before touching hoses, filters or panels.

Dryer won’t start

  1. Close the door firmly — the dryer won’t run if the door switch doesn’t detect it closed.
  2. Check the plug and the breaker. Electric dryers use a 240-volt circuit with a double breaker (or two fuses) — reset both sides if one has tripped.
  3. Check whether Control/Child Lock is on (lock icon or a lock message on the display).
  4. Press and hold Start for a second or two — many dryers need a longer press than a tap.

Dryer runs but doesn’t heat

  1. Make sure you didn’t select an air-only, no-heat or Air Fluff setting.
  2. Electric dryers: check both breakers or fuses for the dryer circuit — a dryer can tumble with one leg of power but won’t heat.
  3. Gas dryers: confirm the gas shut-off valve behind the dryer is open and other gas appliances are working.
  4. Clean the lint filter and check the vent (see “takes too long”) — a blocked vent can trip a safety thermostat or fuse that stops heating.
  5. If it still won’t heat, the heating element, igniter, gas valve, thermal fuse or thermostat may need testing by a technician.

Dryer takes too long or clothes are still damp

  1. Clean the lint filter before every load. If you use dryer sheets, wash the screen occasionally with warm soapy water and a soft brush to remove residue.
  2. Pull the dryer out and check the duct behind it isn’t crushed, kinked or coiled.
  3. Go outside and check the vent hood: the flap should open freely when the dryer runs and there should be strong airflow.
  4. Don’t overload the dryer, and make sure the washer spun the load properly (very wet loads take much longer).
  5. On sensor-dry models, wipe the metal moisture-sensor bars inside the drum with a soft cloth; residue can make the dryer end cycles early or late.
  6. Have the full vent run professionally cleaned if it has been more than a year or the run is long.

Dryer runs but the drum won’t turn

  1. Unplug the dryer, then try turning the drum by hand. If it spins very freely with no resistance, the drive belt may be broken.
  2. Check for an item jammed between the drum and the front of the dryer.
  3. If you hear the motor hum but the drum doesn’t move, stop using the dryer — the belt, idler pulley or motor need a technician.

Dryer is squeaking, thumping or noisy

  1. Check pockets and the drum for coins, buttons, zippers and other hard objects.
  2. Level the dryer so it doesn’t rock.
  3. Squealing or squeaking that grows over time usually points to worn drum rollers, an idler pulley or drum glides; thumping can be a flat spot on a roller. These are repair jobs for a technician or an experienced DIYer.
  4. A burning smell, smoke or sparks: switch off at the breaker and don’t use the dryer until it has been inspected.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the dryer is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

  • Skipping the lint filter. Clean it before every load. A clogged filter slows drying, raises temperatures and can trigger vent or overheat codes.
  • Neglecting the vent. Crushed foil ducts, long runs and lint-clogged outside hoods are the top causes of long drying times and overheating. Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct and clean the run regularly.
  • Overloading. Clothes need space to tumble. Overfilled drums dry unevenly and take longer.
  • Drying very wet loads. If the washer didn’t spin properly, fix that first — the dryer isn’t designed to remove standing water.
  • Ignoring residue on the lint screen and sensors. Dryer-sheet film can block airflow through the screen and fool moisture sensors. Wash the screen and wipe the sensor bars occasionally.
  • Using an extension cord or wrong outlet. Dryers should be plugged directly into a correctly rated outlet; low or incorrect voltage causes heating and power codes.

Tips and tricks for Maytag owners

Useful Maytag-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Maytag’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

  • Power-cycle test before calling. Maytag’s F-code articles use the same first step as Whirlpool: breaker off for 1 minute, breaker on, start a Timed Dry cycle and watch for 1 minute.
  • AF doesn’t stop the dryer. Drying continues with AF showing; touch any key to clear it once the vent is cleaned.
  • L2 is an installation-time check. Maytag notes L2 shows during initial installation — check both breakers and the power-cord wiring.

Safety note

Read this before any DIY fix

Unplug the dryer (or switch off both breakers for an electric dryer) before cleaning the lint housing, moving the dryer or touching the vent. Gas dryers: if you smell gas, don’t operate any switches or the dryer — leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. Don’t disconnect or reconnect gas lines yourself. Never run a dryer without the lint filter, and never ignore repeated overheating or vent warnings — lint build-up is a fire risk. Don’t open the cabinet or touch internal wiring. If your dryer is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with Maytag first.

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Maytag service or a qualified appliance technician if:

  • Any F# E# code returns after the breaker power-cycle test.
  • AF keeps returning even after the vent run has been cleaned.
  • L2 persists after resetting breakers — have an electrician check the supply.
  • The drum won’t turn, or you hear grinding, squealing or thumping.
  • You smell gas (leave and call your gas utility), or notice burning, smoke or sparks.

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Frequently asked questions

What does AF mean on a Maytag dryer?

AF means restricted airflow from a clogged lint screen or vent, or a crushed or kinked duct. The dryer keeps running but dries slowly. Clean the lint screen and vent, then touch any key to clear it.

What does L2 mean on a Maytag dryer?

L2 means low or no line voltage, so the heater may not work. Check both breakers or fuses for the dryer and the power-cord installation, and call an electrician if it persists.

How do I reset a Maytag dryer?

Turn off the dryer’s breaker(s) for one minute, turn them back on, start a Timed Dry cycle and watch for a minute. If the code returns, schedule service.

What does F-01 mean on an older Maytag dryer?

On older Maytag models such as some Bravos dryers, F-01 points to a main electronic control problem. Unplug the dryer for 5 minutes; if the code returns, it needs service.

Is PF an error on a Maytag dryer?

PF means a power failure interrupted the cycle. Press and hold Start to resume or Power to clear the display.

Sources

Maytag Product Help (Error Codes in Dryers; AF, PF and L2 articles); Whirlpool Product Help F-code articles; Sears PartsDirect listings for older Maytag dryers.

Last updated: . This guide was drafted with AI assistance and checked against the manufacturer sources above; items marked Verify in your manual vary by model. FixCode is not affiliated with Maytag or Whirlpool Corporation. Maytag is a trademark of Whirlpool Corporation.