Samsung Dryer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: · Applies to Samsung electric and gas dryers with a digital display (code format varies by model) · Sources

Most Samsung dryer codes point to one of a few things: the door, the power supply, or heat that can’t escape because the lint filter or vent is clogged. This guide covers 13 Samsung dryer codes and code groups, including the Vent Blockage test results on newer models, with the safest fixes first.

Before you start

Note the exact code and your model number (usually on a label inside the door frame). Models without a display show errors as blinking lights instead — see your manual. Codes marked Verify in your manual vary by model.

Samsung dryer error code table

Always unplug the dryer before cleaning the lint housing or moving it to check the vent.

CodeMeaningLikely causeStep-by-step fix
HC / hEalso HC4, 1 HC Heating error — usually the dryer is getting too hot. Occasionally it means the heater isn’t getting hot enough. Clogged lint screen or vent trapping heat; low voltage on electric models.
  1. Clean the lint filter.
  2. Check the duct behind the dryer isn’t crushed or kinked, and clean the vent run to the outside.
  3. Run the cycle again.
  4. Electric dryer still showing the code with a clean vent: have an electrician check the voltage, then request service if needed.
tS / tC / tO / tEalso t5, t0, tE3, tC5 Temperature or temperature-sensor error. Most often a clogged lint screen or vent; otherwise a faulty sensor.
  1. Clean the lint filter and the exhaust vent.
  2. Restart the dryer.
  3. If the code returns with a clean vent, request service.
Verify in your manual: exact code shown varies by model
dC / dE / dF / doalso d0, 1 dF Door error — the door, latch or door sensor isn’t detected as secure. Door not fully closed; laundry caught in the door; damaged latch.
  1. Open the door and check nothing is caught.
  2. Check the latch is intact and close the door firmly.
  3. Restart. If the latch is damaged or the code returns, request service.
9C1 / 9E / 2Ealso 9E1 Voltage error — the power supply to the dryer is abnormal. Extension cord or shared circuit; incorrectly installed power cord on electric models; tripped breaker. Stacked pairs with a multi-control kit can show 9C1 if the dryer is controlled within 5 seconds of turning on the washer.
  1. Make sure the dryer is on its own circuit with no extension cord.
  2. Check the breaker(s) and reset if tripped.
  3. Electric models: confirm the power cord was installed correctly (see the installation guide).
  4. Multi-control-kit stacks: update the dryer software through the SmartThings app.
  5. If the code continues, request service.
bE / bE2 / 6Ealso bC2, 6E2, 6C2 Jammed button — a control button is detected as stuck. A stuck or continuously pressed button.
  1. Turn the dryer off.
  2. Press and release every button individually, working each one back and forth.
  3. Turn it back on. If a button is damaged or the code returns, request service.
AC / AE / Etalso EEE, E3, AE3–AE5 Communication error — the dryer’s internal components can’t communicate. Electronic control glitch or fault.
  1. Turn the dryer off for 60 seconds, then on again.
  2. If the code remains, request service.
FC / FEalso 1 FC Frequency error — invalid power source frequency detected. Power supply irregularity.
  1. Restart the cycle.
  2. If the code remains, request service.
Clg / C80 / C90also Cg, C8, C9 Vent Blockage test result (only after the test has been run): Clg/Cg means the vent is clogged, C80/C8 about 80% clogged, C90/C9 more than 90% clogged. Lint build-up in the filter housing, duct or outside vent; crushed duct.
  1. Clean the lint filter.
  2. Clean the full exhaust vent run and check the outside hood flap opens.
  3. Run the Vent Blockage test again to confirm.
C1 / CL1 Laundry was detected in the drum during the Vent Blockage test. The drum wasn’t empty.
  1. Remove all laundry and run the test again.
  2. If it appears with an empty drum, request service.
Ct The dryer is below freezing or above 104°F, so the vent test can’t run. Dryer in an unheated garage or very hot space.
  1. Let the dryer sit at room temperature for about an hour and try again.
  2. If the code continues, request service.
HC2 Gas ignition error (gas models). Gas supply valve closed; ignition component fault.
  1. Check the gas shut-off valve behind the dryer is open (handle in line with the pipe).
  2. Power the dryer off for 2–3 minutes and restart.
  3. If it returns, request service. Don’t attempt gas repairs yourself.
Verify in your manual
3C Motor error. Overloaded drum; item jamming the drum; motor fault.
  1. Remove some of the load.
  2. Power off for 2–3 minutes and restart.
  3. If it returns, request service.
dn Firmware download in progress — not a fault. A Wi-Fi model is updating.
  1. Do not unplug or switch off the dryer while dn is showing — Samsung warns this can make the dryer inoperable.
  2. Wait; the dryer restarts itself when done. If dn is still showing after 24 hours, request service.

Don’t see your code? If your code isn’t listed, Samsung’s general advice is to power the dryer off for 2–3 minutes, power it back on and restart the cycle. If it returns, check your user manual or request service.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common dryer problems, in order. They apply to most Samsung dryers. Unplug the dryer before touching hoses, filters or panels.

Dryer won’t start

  1. Close the door firmly — the dryer won’t run if the door switch doesn’t detect it closed.
  2. Check the plug and the breaker. Electric dryers use a 240-volt circuit with a double breaker (or two fuses) — reset both sides if one has tripped.
  3. Check whether Control/Child Lock is on (lock icon or a lock message on the display).
  4. Press and hold Start for a second or two — many dryers need a longer press than a tap.

Dryer runs but doesn’t heat

  1. Make sure you didn’t select an air-only, no-heat or Air Fluff setting.
  2. Electric dryers: check both breakers or fuses for the dryer circuit — a dryer can tumble with one leg of power but won’t heat.
  3. Gas dryers: confirm the gas shut-off valve behind the dryer is open and other gas appliances are working.
  4. Clean the lint filter and check the vent (see “takes too long”) — a blocked vent can trip a safety thermostat or fuse that stops heating.
  5. If it still won’t heat, the heating element, igniter, gas valve, thermal fuse or thermostat may need testing by a technician.

Dryer takes too long or clothes are still damp

  1. Clean the lint filter before every load. If you use dryer sheets, wash the screen occasionally with warm soapy water and a soft brush to remove residue.
  2. Pull the dryer out and check the duct behind it isn’t crushed, kinked or coiled.
  3. Go outside and check the vent hood: the flap should open freely when the dryer runs and there should be strong airflow.
  4. Don’t overload the dryer, and make sure the washer spun the load properly (very wet loads take much longer).
  5. On sensor-dry models, wipe the metal moisture-sensor bars inside the drum with a soft cloth; residue can make the dryer end cycles early or late.
  6. Have the full vent run professionally cleaned if it has been more than a year or the run is long.

Dryer runs but the drum won’t turn

  1. Unplug the dryer, then try turning the drum by hand. If it spins very freely with no resistance, the drive belt may be broken.
  2. Check for an item jammed between the drum and the front of the dryer.
  3. If you hear the motor hum but the drum doesn’t move, stop using the dryer — the belt, idler pulley or motor need a technician.

Dryer is squeaking, thumping or noisy

  1. Check pockets and the drum for coins, buttons, zippers and other hard objects.
  2. Level the dryer so it doesn’t rock.
  3. Squealing or squeaking that grows over time usually points to worn drum rollers, an idler pulley or drum glides; thumping can be a flat spot on a roller. These are repair jobs for a technician or an experienced DIYer.
  4. A burning smell, smoke or sparks: switch off at the breaker and don’t use the dryer until it has been inspected.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the dryer is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

  • Skipping the lint filter. Clean it before every load. A clogged filter slows drying, raises temperatures and can trigger vent or overheat codes.
  • Neglecting the vent. Crushed foil ducts, long runs and lint-clogged outside hoods are the top causes of long drying times and overheating. Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct and clean the run regularly.
  • Overloading. Clothes need space to tumble. Overfilled drums dry unevenly and take longer.
  • Drying very wet loads. If the washer didn’t spin properly, fix that first — the dryer isn’t designed to remove standing water.
  • Ignoring residue on the lint screen and sensors. Dryer-sheet film can block airflow through the screen and fool moisture sensors. Wash the screen and wipe the sensor bars occasionally.
  • Using an extension cord or wrong outlet. Dryers should be plugged directly into a correctly rated outlet; low or incorrect voltage causes heating and power codes.

Tips and tricks for Samsung owners

Useful Samsung-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Samsung’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

  • Use the Vent Blockage test. Newer Samsung dryers can test the vent and report Clg, C80 or C90. Run it with an empty drum at room temperature — see your manual for how to start it.
  • Never unplug during dn. Interrupting a firmware download can leave the dryer needing service.
  • Stacked with a multi-control kit? Samsung says a 9C1 shown on the washer can be a timing issue fixed by a SmartThings software update for the dryer.
  • Blinking lights aren’t always errors. On non-display models, the lint filter reminder or cycle status may simply blink. Only treat lights as a code if the dryer isn’t working normally.
  • SmartThings diagnostics. Wi-Fi models can run diagnostics and explain codes in the SmartThings app.

Safety note

Read this before any DIY fix

Unplug the dryer (or switch off both breakers for an electric dryer) before cleaning the lint housing, moving the dryer or touching the vent. Gas dryers: if you smell gas, don’t operate any switches or the dryer — leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. Don’t disconnect or reconnect gas lines yourself. Never run a dryer without the lint filter, and never ignore repeated overheating or vent warnings — lint build-up is a fire risk. Don’t open the cabinet or touch internal wiring. If your dryer is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with Samsung first.

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Samsung support or a qualified appliance technician if:

  • The same code returns after you’ve completed all the fix steps.
  • HC/hE or temperature codes return even with a clean lint filter and vent.
  • HC2 (gas ignition) appears, or you smell gas — leave the house and call your gas utility first.
  • The drum won’t turn, or you hear grinding, squealing or thumping.
  • Voltage codes continue after you’ve confirmed a dedicated circuit with no extension cord.
  • You notice a burning smell, smoke or sparks.

Get the part

Have your model number ready — dryer parts are model-specific.

Buy parts online

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Local help

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Frequently asked questions

What does HC mean on a Samsung dryer?

HC (or hE) is a heating error, which usually means the dryer is getting too hot because the lint filter or vent is clogged. Clean the lint filter and the exhaust vent. On electric models it can also mean the heater isn’t getting hot enough because of low voltage.

How do I reset my Samsung dryer?

Power the dryer off for 2–3 minutes (60 seconds for communication errors), turn it back on and restart the cycle. Fix the cause first, such as cleaning the vent for heating codes.

What do Clg, C80 and C90 mean on a Samsung dryer?

They are results of the Vent Blockage test. Clg means the vent is clogged, C80 means about 80% blocked and C90 means over 90% blocked. Clean the lint filter and exhaust vent, then rerun the test.

Why does my Samsung dryer show dn?

dn means a firmware update is downloading. Don’t unplug the dryer while it is shown. The dryer restarts itself when the update finishes.

Can I keep using my Samsung dryer with a heating error?

No. Heating errors usually mean hot air can’t escape. Stop and clean the lint filter and vent before using the dryer again, because lint build-up is a fire risk.

Sources

Samsung US support (dryer error codes and blinking-light guides) and Samsung Canada support.

Last updated: . This guide was drafted with AI assistance and checked against the manufacturer sources above; items marked Verify in your manual vary by model. FixCode is not affiliated with Samsung Electronics. Samsung is a trademark of Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd.