Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: October 5, 2026 · Applies to Samsung French door, side-by-side, bottom-freezer and Family Hub refrigerators with a digital display (code format varies by model) · Sources

Samsung refrigerators show codes like 22E (fridge fan) or OF OF (Cooling Off/demo mode) on the display. Some are simple to fix — especially fan codes caused by ice — while sensor and compressor codes need a technician. This guide covers 16 Samsung refrigerator codes and code groups from Samsung’s US and Canadian support lists.

Samsung refrigerator error code table

Only unplug the refrigerator when a step tells you to. Move food to a cooler if you’ll be defrosting.

Don’t see your code? Samsung’s lists aren’t complete. For other codes, Samsung’s advice is to request service; your user manual may list model-specific codes.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common refrigerator problems, in order. They apply to most Samsung refrigerators. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning coils, moving it or touching the water line.

Refrigerator not cooling (or freezer not freezing)

1. Check the display isn’t in a showroom/demo or “cooling off” mode — the lights and display work but nothing gets cold. See the codes above and your manual for how to turn it off.
2. Check the temperature settings. The FDA recommends keeping the refrigerator at 40°F (4°C) or below and the freezer at 0°F (−18°C).
3. Make sure food isn’t blocking the air vents inside the fresh-food and freezer compartments.
4. Check the doors close and seal fully — overfilled door bins or a shelf out of place can hold a door open slightly.
5. Clean the condenser coils (unplug first; see your manual for their location) and leave the clearance your manual specifies around the fridge so it can release heat.
6. After a power outage, a move or a new installation, allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to settle.
7. If the display shows OF OF or O FF, the fridge is in Cooling Off mode — see the code table.

Freezer is frosting up

1. Check that the freezer door or drawer closes fully and isn’t blocked by packages or an ice bin out of position.
2. Inspect the door gaskets for tears or gaps, and wipe them clean — a sticky or torn gasket lets in humid air.
3. Check the fridge is level (or tilted slightly back, if your manual says so) so the doors swing closed on their own.
4. Limit how long doors are held open, and let hot food cool before freezing it.
5. Heavy frost on the back wall or evaporator cover, especially with poor cooling, usually points to a defrost-system problem that needs a technician. A manual defrost (unplugged, doors open) can get you by temporarily.

Ice maker not making ice

1. Make sure the ice maker is switched on — check the Ice On/Off setting, switch or shut-off arm.
2. Check the household water supply valve to the fridge is fully open and the supply line behind the fridge isn’t kinked.
3. Check the water filter is seated correctly; a clogged or old filter slows the water flow. Replace it if it’s due.
4. Check the freezer is cold enough — the ice maker needs the freezer near 0°F (−18°C) to make ice at a normal rate.
5. Empty the ice bin if cubes have fused into clumps that jam the ice maker or dispenser.
6. On a new installation, allow about 24 hours for the first ice, and discard the first few batches.

Water dispenser not working or slow

1. Check the water supply valve is fully open and the supply line isn’t kinked when the fridge is pushed back.
2. Check the water filter is fully locked in. After installing a new filter, dispense water for a few minutes to flush air out of the system (your manual gives the exact amount).
3. Check Control/Child Lock isn’t turned on.
4. Low household water pressure slows dispensing and ice making — your manual lists the minimum pressure.
5. If water stops after the freezer was set very cold, the water line in the door may have frozen; a technician can confirm and thaw it safely.

Refrigerator is noisy

1. Many sounds are normal: humming or whooshing from the compressor and fans, clicks from the defrost timer or valves, gurgling refrigerant, a sizzle during defrost, a buzz while the water valve fills the ice maker, and ice dropping into the bin.
2. Check the fridge is level and stable, and that it isn’t touching the wall, cabinets or another appliance.
3. Remove items stored on top of the fridge that can rattle.
4. A rattling sound from the bottom can be a loose drain pan or grille; a scraping or ticking fan noise can mean frost is touching a fan blade (see the fan codes above).
5. Loud grinding, banging or a very loud compressor that runs constantly needs a technician.

Refrigerator is leaking water

1. Check the water supply line connection behind the fridge for drips, and make sure the water filter is fully seated.
2. Water pooling under the crisper drawers or on the fridge floor often means the defrost drain is clogged or frozen; see your manual for how to clear it, or call a technician.
3. Check the ice dispenser chute and door bins for melted ice.
4. Check the fridge is level or tilted as your manual specifies so condensation drains properly.
5. If you can’t find the source, turn off the water supply valve to the fridge and call a technician.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the refrigerator is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

• Blocking the vents. Packing food against the vents stops cold air circulating, causing warm spots, frozen produce and fan or temperature alerts.
• Overfilling door bins. Heavy or overfilled bins can stop a door sealing, which lets in warm, humid air and causes frost and door alarms.
• Never cleaning the condenser coils. Dusty coils make the compressor work harder and can lead to poor cooling. Check your manual for location and cleaning interval.
• Forgetting the water filter. An old or badly seated filter slows the dispenser and ice maker. Use the filter your model specifies and replace it on schedule.
• Chipping ice with sharp tools. Never use a knife or ice pick to remove frost — you can puncture a refrigerant line. Let it melt instead.
• Pushing the fridge back too hard. Crushing or kinking the water line, or leaving too little clearance for airflow, causes ice-maker, dispenser and cooling problems.
• Unplugging repeatedly to clear codes. Some manufacturers ask you not to unplug the fridge unless directed, because it can make the fault harder for a technician to diagnose.

Tips and tricks for Samsung owners

Useful Samsung-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Samsung’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

• Don’t unplug unless told to. Samsung says unplugging or pressing buttons to clear a code makes it harder for a technician to diagnose. Only unplug when a step calls for it.
• OF OF isn’t broken. It’s Cooling Off (demo) mode. On most models, hold the top two left-side buttons for 5–8 seconds until a different chime sounds.
• Fan codes are often ice. 21E and 22E usually mean a fan is frozen — often from a door left open or a gasket not sealing. Defrosting can clear it.
• Reseat the door harness for PC ER. Samsung suggests switching off power, disconnecting and reconnecting the wire harness above the door, then restoring power.
• Run Self Check on Family Hub. Apps › Fridge Manager › Fridge Settings › Self Check lists current and past error codes.
• All icons flashing after power-up is normal. Samsung Canada notes this is the self-diagnostic start-up routine — just wait.

Safety note

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Samsung support or a qualified refrigeration technician if:

• Sensor (5E, 8E, 14E), ice pipe heater (33E) or compressor (84C) codes appear.
• Fan codes return after a full defrost and the doors seal properly.
• Voltage or communication codes return after the 60-second reset.
• The fridge isn’t cooling and isn’t in Cooling Off mode.
• You notice a burning smell, or the compressor runs constantly with poor cooling.

Frequently asked questions

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