Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them
Samsung dishwashers usually show two-character codes — the most common are 4C (water supply), 5C (drain) and LC (leak). Samsung stresses that you should troubleshoot before resetting. This guide covers 16 Samsung dishwasher codes and code groups from Samsung’s US and Canadian support lists.
Write down the code and model number (on a label on the side or top of the door opening). Samsung says not to reset or clear a code before troubleshooting it. On models without a display, a combination of blinking cycle lights shows the error — your manual or Samsung’s blinking-lights guide decodes it. Codes marked Verify in your manual vary by model.
Samsung dishwasher error code table
Switch off the breaker before cleaning the filter or sump. For a leak code, turn off the water supply too.
| Code | Meaning | Likely cause | Step-by-step fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4C / 4E | The dishwasher isn’t getting water at the pressure or temperature it needs. | Supply valve closed; kinked hose; low pressure; “FloodSafe”-style hose restricting flow. |
|
| 5C / 5E / SC / SE | The dishwasher can’t drain. | Clogged filter or sump; kinked, pinched or poorly looped drain hose; blocked disposal. |
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| OC / 0C / oE | There’s more water in the dishwasher than there should be. | Usually a drain problem or detergent foam. |
|
| LC / LE | The leak sensor has detected moisture. The dishwasher stays on and tries to drain. | A leak; detergent overdosing; door seal blocked; on Waterwall models, a blocked reflector. |
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| 1E / IE | Waterwall models: water isn’t getting through the filter. Rotary (spray-arm) models: the temperature inside is too high. | Clogged fine filter (Waterwall); heating issue (rotary). |
|
| HC | The temperature inside the dishwasher is too hot. | Heater or sensor fault. |
|
| HE / tE | The temperature inside is being detected incorrectly (heater or temperature sensor error). | Heater or sensor fault. |
|
| 3E | The incoming water is too hot. | Water heater set very high. |
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| 3C | Pump operation error. | Pump fault. |
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| 7EWaterwall models | The Waterwall reflector can’t move correctly. | Packing tape left on a new unit; item blocking the reflector track. |
|
| 9E | There isn’t enough water in the dishwasher. | Low supply; fill issue. |
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| bE / 6E | The panel detects a stuck button. | Button held down or damaged. |
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| CE | The control panel can’t communicate with the rest of the dishwasher. | Electronic fault. |
|
| PC | The Zone Wash function isn’t working correctly. | Zone Wash component fault. |
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| PE | The half-load function isn’t working correctly. | Half-load component fault. |
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| AP | Wi-Fi setup mode for connecting to the SmartThings app. | Setup was started. |
|
Don’t see your code? Samsung’s list doesn’t cover every model. If your code isn’t here, check your user manual or Samsung’s support site — and on models with blinking lights only, use Samsung’s blinking-light guide.
Troubleshooting without an error code
No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common dishwasher problems, in order. They apply to most Samsung dishwashers. Switch off power to the dishwasher (unplug it or turn off its breaker) before removing the filter or touching anything under the sink.
Dishwasher won’t start
- Check the door is fully latched — a tall item, a rack that isn’t pushed all the way in, or a utensil poking through the basket can stop it closing.
- Check the power: reset the breaker, and if the dishwasher is plugged in under the sink, make sure the plug is seated. Some installations are controlled by a wall switch (often next to the garbage-disposal switch) — make sure it’s on.
- Look for a lock icon or “CL” on the display — Control/Child Lock may be on. Your manual shows which button to hold to turn it off.
- Check whether Delay Start is set (a countdown or an “h” on the display); cancel it if you want the cycle to run now.
- On many models you press Start and then must close the door within a few seconds, or the cycle won’t begin.
Dishwasher won’t drain (standing water in the bottom)
- Remove the lower rack and take out the filter. Clean it under running water with a soft brush — a clogged filter is the most common cause of standing water.
- If the dishwasher drains into a garbage disposal, run the disposal to clear it. On a new installation or a new disposal, make sure the disposal’s knockout plug was removed.
- If you have an air gap on the countertop (a small chrome cap by the faucet), pull off the cover and clear any debris.
- Check the drain hose under the sink for kinks or crushed sections, especially if items are stored under the sink.
- Run a drain or Cancel/Drain cycle (see your manual) to check whether it drains at all.
Dishes aren’t getting clean
- Run the hot water at the kitchen sink until it’s hot before starting a cycle, so the dishwasher fills with hot water from the start.
- Clean the filter, and check that the spray arms spin freely and their holes aren’t blocked by food or hard-water deposits.
- Load so nothing blocks the spray arms or stops the detergent dispenser opening — tall pans and cutting boards are common culprits.
- Use fresh automatic-dishwasher detergent (old powder clumps) and keep the rinse aid topped up, especially with hard water.
- Scrape off large food scraps, but you don’t need to pre-rinse — many detergents work best with some soil to act on.
- Choose a heavier cycle for very dirty loads and avoid overcrowding.
Dishwasher is leaking
- Turn off the dishwasher (and its power at the breaker) before investigating, and mop up any water.
- Use only automatic-dishwasher detergent. Hand dish soap or laundry detergent makes suds that can push water out under the door.
- Check the door gasket for food, tears or gaps, and make sure nothing is sticking out and holding the door slightly open.
- Check the dishwasher is level — if it tilts forward, water can reach the door seal.
- If water comes from underneath with no obvious cause, turn off the water supply valve under the sink and call a technician.
Dishes are still wet at the end
- Fill the rinse aid dispenser — rinse aid makes water sheet off instead of beading, and many modern dishwashers rely on it for drying.
- Select a heated-dry or extra-dry option if your model has one.
- Plastics hold less heat than glass and china, so they often stay damp — that’s normal.
- Unload the bottom rack first so water from cupped items on the top rack doesn’t drip onto dry dishes.
- Don’t overload — items need space for air and water to drain away.
Dishwasher smells bad
- Clean the filter and the area around it — trapped food is the usual source of odors.
- Wipe the door gasket and the bottom edge of the door, where grime collects out of the spray’s reach.
- Run an empty hot cycle with a dishwasher cleaner (follow the product label).
- If the dishwasher drains into a disposal, run the disposal regularly so waste doesn’t sit in the drain line.
- Leave the door slightly open between loads so the tub can dry out.
Common mistakes
Many “faults” are caused by how the dishwasher is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:
- Using hand dish soap. Regular dish soap or laundry detergent creates suds that can overflow, leak under the door and trigger leak or suds codes. Use only automatic-dishwasher detergent.
- Never cleaning the filter. Many modern dishwashers use a manual-clean filter. A clogged filter causes standing water, drain codes, poor cleaning and odors.
- Blocking the spray arms or dispenser. Tall items, pan handles and cutting boards can stop the spray arms turning or the detergent door opening.
- Starting with cold water in the line. Dishwashers clean best when they fill with hot water. Run the kitchen tap until it’s hot first.
- Skipping rinse aid. Without rinse aid, many modern dishwashers dry poorly and leave spots, especially with hard water.
- Ignoring the drain path. A kinked hose, a clogged air gap, a full disposal, or a disposal knockout plug that was never removed all cause drain problems.
- Resetting instead of fixing. Cutting the power may clear the code, but not the cause. Do the checks first — and if a leak code appears, turn off the water.
Tips and tricks for Samsung owners
Useful Samsung-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Samsung’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.
- Troubleshoot before you reset. Samsung warns that resetting before fixing the cause can let the problem return or damage the dishwasher.
- Avoid FloodSafe-type hoses. Samsung lists these restrictive supply hoses as a cause of 4C/4E water-supply errors.
- New Waterwall dishwasher? Remove any packing tape from the Waterwall reflector — it’s a common cause of 7E.
- Blinking lights can be codes. On models without a display, a combination of blinking lights is an error code if the dishwasher also stops working normally. If all lights blink, Samsung suggests switching off the breaker for 2 minutes.
- Hot, but not too hot. 3E means the supply water is above about 176°F — check your water heater setting.
Safety note
Switch off power to the dishwasher — unplug it or turn off its circuit breaker — before removing the filter, reaching into the sump or touching anything under the sink. Water and the heating element can be hot right after a cycle, and the filter area can hide broken glass or sharp blades, so work carefully. If you see a leak, turn off the water supply valve (usually under the sink) as well. Never bypass the door switch, don’t remove the toe-kick or panels to touch wiring, and leave hard-wired electrical connections to a qualified person. If your dishwasher is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with Samsung first.
When to call a pro
The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Samsung support or a qualified appliance technician if:
- LC/LE (leak) keeps returning after you’ve checked for leaks and detergent problems.
- Heater, temperature, pump, communication or Zone Wash codes return after the steps above.
- 5C or OC returns after the filter, sump and hose are clear.
- Water reaches the floor, or you notice burning, smoke or sparks.
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Frequently asked questions
What does 4C mean on a Samsung dishwasher?
4C (or 4E) is a water-supply error: the dishwasher isn’t getting water at the pressure or temperature it needs. Open the supply valve fully, check for kinks and avoid FloodSafe-type hoses.
What does 5C mean on a Samsung dishwasher?
5C (also 5E, SC or SE) means the dishwasher can’t drain. Clean the filter and sump, and check the drain hose isn’t kinked or badly routed.
Why is my Samsung dishwasher showing LC?
LC or LE means the leak sensor detected moisture. The dishwasher will try to drain. Look for leaks, check the door seal and detergent use, and on Waterwall models check the reflector.
How do I reset a Samsung dishwasher?
Fix the cause first, then switch the power off at the breaker for about 30 seconds and back on. Samsung recommends troubleshooting before any reset.
What does HE mean on a Samsung dishwasher?
HE means the temperature is being detected incorrectly. Empty the dishwasher, add detergent and run a Normal cycle; if it returns, switch off the breaker and request service.
Related guides
- Samsung Washer Error Codes
- Samsung Dryer Error Codes
- Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes
- LG Dishwasher Error Codes
- Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes
- Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes
- All dishwasher error code guides
Sources
Samsung US support (“Samsung dishwasher is displaying an error code”, not-draining and blinking-lights guides); Samsung Canada dishwasher error-code list.
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