Samsung Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: · Applies to Samsung front-load and top-load washers with a digital display (code format varies by model and age) · Sources

Samsung washers often show the same problem in several ways depending on age: older models use an E (4E, 5E), newer ones a C (4C, 5C), and some use letters (nF, nd). This guide groups those variants together and covers 17 Samsung washer codes and code groups for front-load and top-load models — what each means, the likely cause and what you can safely try.

Before you start

Note the exact code and your model number (on a label inside the door or lid, or on the back of the washer). Codes marked Verify in your manual mean different things on different Samsung models — check your user manual or Samsung’s support site to confirm.

Samsung washer error code table

Always unplug the washer before removing hoses, panels or the debris filter. Codes are grouped with their older and newer equivalents.

CodeMeaningLikely causeStep-by-step fix
4C / 4E / nFalso 1 4C Not filling — water isn’t entering the washer correctly. Taps closed or partly closed; kinked inlet hose; hot hose not connected (the washer can call for hot even on cold-labelled cycles); clogged inlet filters; drain hose pushed too deep, causing siphoning.
  1. Open both water taps fully and leave them open.
  2. Check both hoses are connected hot-to-hot and cold-to-cold and aren’t kinked. Samsung advises against “flood safe” style hoses.
  3. Check the drain hose sits about 6–8 inches into the standpipe — no deeper.
  4. Unplug the washer (or switch off its breaker) for 1 minute, then restart.
  5. Turn off the taps, disconnect the hoses at the washer and clean the inlet filter screens, then reconnect and reopen the taps.
Full 4C fix guide →
4C2 / 4E2 / CE / nF1also 14C2 Hot/cold error — very hot water is arriving through the cold inlet. The hot and cold supply hoses are connected the wrong way round.
  1. Turn off both taps and unplug the washer.
  2. Swap the hoses so the cold supply goes to the cold (blue) inlet and hot to the hot (red) inlet.
  3. Reopen the taps and run a cycle. Samsung says this code doesn’t mean the washer needs service.
5C / 5E / nd Not draining — water isn’t leaving the washer fast enough, or at all. Clogged debris (drain) filter; kinked, frozen or blocked drain hose; drain hose inserted too far into the standpipe; excess suds.
  1. Check the drain hose for kinks and that it isn’t frozen or blocked.
  2. Unplug the washer. On models with a debris filter (usually behind a small panel at the bottom front of front-loaders), place towels and a pan underneath, drain the remaining water and clean the filter.
  3. Make sure the drain hose isn’t pushed too far into the standpipe.
  4. Reconnect power and run a Rinse + Spin or Drain/Spin cycle.
Verify in your manual: filter location, and whether your model has one
LC / LE / 1C / 1Ealso LC1, 1 LC Water level or leakage error — moisture is detected where it shouldn’t be, or the level sensor has a problem. A small leak from a hose or connection; kinked hoses; too many suds from excess or non-HE detergent, bleach or softener.
  1. Look carefully for leaks around hoses and under the washer — fixing the leak clears the code.
  2. Check the supply and drain hoses aren’t kinked. Don’t remove the screw and holder that clip the drain hose to the back of the washer.
  3. Run an empty cycle with no detergent or additives and watch for suds. If suds appear, keep running empty cycles until they stop.
  4. If there are no suds and the code keeps returning, request service.
OC / OE / OF Overflow — the washer has detected too much water in the tub. Water inlet valve not shutting off; excess suds; drain problem; water-level sensor fault.
  1. Turn off the water taps.
  2. Unplug the washer for a few minutes, then restart. Samsung’s overflow guidance points to its drain-troubleshooting steps, so also work through the 5C/nd steps above.
  3. If the washer keeps filling with the power off, or the code returns, request service.
Verify in your manual: code names vary by model
dC / dE / dS / dLalso d5, FL, LO, dE1, dE2, dC1 Door (or lid) error — the door isn’t detected as closed and locked. Door or lid not fully closed; clothing caught in the door; damaged latch. Child Lock with water in the tub can also trigger it.
  1. Open the door or lid and remove anything caught in it.
  2. Check the latch looks intact and close the door firmly.
  3. Restart the cycle. If the code persists or the latch is damaged, request service.
Verify in your manual: on some models dC means unbalanced load
ddC / dC3 Add Door error — the small AddWash door isn’t detected as closed and locked. AddWash door not fully shut; item caught in it; damaged latch.
  1. Open the AddWash door, clear anything caught in it and press it firmly closed.
  2. Restart the cycle. Request service if the latch is damaged or the code returns.
UE / Ub / U6 / Uralso 1 Ub, 1U6 Unbalanced load. Ur means the washer is retrying (adding water and rebalancing) — it’s informational, not a fault. Items tangled to one side; a single heavy item; very small load; washer not level.
  1. Pause and untangle the laundry, spreading it evenly.
  2. Add similar items to a single heavy item, or remove some from an overloaded drum.
  3. Close the door and press Start.
  4. If it happens constantly, check the washer is level.
Verify in your manual: on some models dc is used for unbalance
Sd / 5d / SUdS Over-sudsing — the washer pauses to let suds break down, then continues automatically. Too much detergent, or non-HE detergent.
  1. Let the cycle continue — it resumes by itself. The code may flash again at the end as a reminder.
  2. Run an extra Rinse if clothes feel soapy.
  3. Use HE detergent and measure it carefully next time.
Verify in your manual: exact code shown varies by model
9C1 / 9C2 / PF / UCalso 9E1, 9E2, 2E, 19C1 Voltage or power error — the electrical supply is irregular, or power was cut during a cycle (PF). Power outage; washer unplugged mid-cycle; tripped breaker; extension cord or shared circuit; model used outside its home country.
  1. Check the washer is plugged straight into the wall on its own circuit — no extension cord.
  2. Reset the breaker if it tripped and restart the cycle.
  3. If the code continues without any power cuts, request service.
Verify in your manual: 3E is a voltage error on some models, motor error on others
E2 / bE2 / 6E2 Jammed button — a button is detected as stuck or continuously pressed. A button stuck down, often from residue or something resting on the panel.
  1. Turn the washer off.
  2. Press and release each button individually, rocking it to reach all edges.
  3. Turn the washer back on. If a button is damaged or the code returns, request service.
Verify in your manual: on some models 8E2/BE2 is a vibration-sensor error instead
3C / 3E / E3also 1 3C Motor error. Overloaded drum; an item jamming the drum; motor, sensor or wiring fault.
  1. Unplug the washer for 2–3 minutes.
  2. Remove some of the load and check the drum turns freely by hand.
  3. Plug back in and restart. If the code returns, request service.
Verify in your manual: 3E may be a voltage error on some models
AC / AEalso AC6, AE6 and others Communication error between the washer’s internal control boards. Electronic control or wiring fault, sometimes a temporary glitch.
  1. Power the washer off for 2–3 minutes.
  2. Turn it back on and restart the cycle.
  3. If it keeps happening, request service.
tC / tEalso tE1 Water temperature sensor error. Faulty temperature sensor or wiring.
  1. Power off for 2–3 minutes, then restart.
  2. You can usually keep washing on cold in the meantime.
  3. If the code returns, request service.
HC / HEalso HE1, Hr Heater error (on models that heat water internally). Heater, sensor or wiring fault.
  1. Power off for 2–3 minutes, then restart.
  2. If the code returns, request service.
Cb / C6 Calibration mode — not a fault. The washer is recalibrating its load-weight sensing. Calibration was started (normally at the end of installation).
  1. Make sure the drum is completely empty — calibration won’t be accurate with anything inside.
  2. Let it run; the drum rotates for 1–3 minutes and the mode ends by itself.
dn Downloading a software update — not a fault. A Wi-Fi model is installing an update; controls won’t respond meanwhile.
  1. Leave the washer powered on; updates take about 15 minutes.
  2. If dn shows for more than 30 minutes with power and Wi-Fi working, request service.

Don’t see your code? Samsung uses many model-specific codes. If yours isn’t listed, power the washer off for 2–3 minutes, power it back on and restart the cycle; if it returns, check your user manual or Samsung’s support site.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common washer problems, in order. They apply to most Samsung washers. Unplug the washer before touching hoses, filters or panels.

Washer won’t start

  1. Check the plug is fully seated in a working outlet and the breaker hasn’t tripped (test the outlet with a lamp).
  2. Close the door or lid firmly — the washer won’t start if it can’t detect it as closed.
  3. Look for a lock icon or “CL/LOC” on the display: Child/Control Lock may be on. See your manual for which button to hold.
  4. Make sure you pressed Start (on many models you must select a cycle and then press and hold Start, or press Start within a few seconds of powering on).

Washer won’t drain or clothes are soaking wet

  1. Cancel the cycle and run a Drain & Spin (or Rinse & Spin) to see whether it drains at all.
  2. Check the drain hose behind the washer for kinks or a crushed section, especially after the washer was moved.
  3. Make sure the drain hose isn’t pushed too far into the standpipe and isn’t sealed into it with tape — this can cause siphoning or slow draining. Samsung specifies inserting the drain hose about 6–8 inches into the standpipe.
  4. If your washer has a drain pump filter or coin trap, unplug the washer and clean it (towels and a shallow pan ready; the water may be hot). On most Samsung front-loaders the debris filter is behind a small panel at the bottom front.
  5. Too many suds can stop a washer draining and spinning properly — use HE detergent and measure it.

Washer won’t spin

  1. Open the door or lid and spread the load evenly; add a couple of towels to a single heavy item or remove a few items from an overloaded drum.
  2. Make sure the washer has drained — most washers won’t spin with water in the tub (see “won’t drain”).
  3. Check the washer is level and doesn’t rock; adjust the feet.
  4. Check the door or lid is fully latched — spin requires it to lock.
  5. Run a Spin-only cycle on its own to test.

Washer is leaking

  1. Unplug the washer and turn off both water taps before investigating.
  2. Check the fill hose connections at the taps and at the back of the washer; hand-tighten loose couplings and replace cracked or bulging hoses.
  3. Check the drain hose is secured in the standpipe and the standpipe isn’t overflowing.
  4. On front-loaders, look for tears or trapped items in the door gasket and check that the drain pump filter cap is screwed in fully.
  5. Too many suds can push water out of the dispenser or door — use HE detergent at the recommended dose.
  6. If water is coming from underneath with no obvious source, stop using the washer and call a technician.

Washer is noisy, shaking or “walking”

  1. Rebalance the load and avoid washing a single heavy item on its own.
  2. Level the washer: adjust the feet until it doesn’t rock and tighten the lock nuts if fitted.
  3. On a new washer, confirm the shipping bolts or transit restraints were removed (see the installation guide).
  4. Check pockets for coins, keys and other hard objects; on models with a drain pump filter, a rattling or grinding sound while draining can mean an object in the filter.
  5. Loud banging, grinding or squealing that continues with an empty drum needs a technician.

Washer smells musty

  1. Run the washer’s cleaning cycle (Tub Clean, Clean Washer, Self Clean or similar) with an approved washer cleaner or bleach as your manual directs.
  2. On front-loaders, wipe the door gasket — including the folds — and leave the door ajar between loads so the drum can dry.
  3. Remove and rinse the detergent dispenser drawer and clean the drawer cavity.
  4. Clean the drain pump filter if your model has one; trapped lint and debris can smell.
  5. Use only HE detergent and don’t overdose — excess detergent and fabric softener leave residue that feeds odors.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the washer is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

  • Overloading the drum. Clothes need room to move. Packing the drum causes unbalanced loads, poor rinsing and strain on the motor and suspension.
  • Too much detergent, or the wrong kind. Modern washers use little water. Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent and measure it — excess suds can cause drain, spin and suds codes, leaks and odors.
  • Washing one heavy item alone. A single bath mat, rug or comforter bunches to one side. Add a few similar items to balance it, or use the bulky/bedding cycle.
  • Ignoring the drain hose. A kinked hose, or one pushed too far into the standpipe or taped in place, causes slow draining or siphoning.
  • Leaving taps half-closed. Partly open taps and dirty inlet screens cause slow-fill codes. Open both taps fully.
  • Never cleaning the washer. Skipping the cleaning cycle, gasket wipe-downs and filter cleaning leads to odors, residue and drain problems.
  • Resetting instead of fixing. Unplugging clears the display but not the cause. Do the checks first; repeated resets can also clear the fault history a technician would use.

Tips and tricks for Samsung owners

Useful Samsung-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Samsung’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

  • Fix first, reset second. Samsung notes that resetting clears the washer’s stored error history, which technicians use to diagnose faults — so complete the troubleshooting before resetting, and don’t keep clearing a code that returns.
  • Know your code generation. The same fault appears as 4E/4C/nF (not filling) or 5E/5C/nd (not draining) depending on model age, so look up the group, not just the exact characters.
  • Ur is not a fault. It just means the washer is adding water and rebalancing before trying to spin again, which makes the cycle longer.
  • Run calibration after moving or installing. Calibration (Cb) recalibrates load sensing and must be run with an empty drum. See your manual for the button sequence.
  • The Self Clean / Pure Cycle reminder isn’t urgent. The tub-clean light comes on after a set number of washes; run the cycle when convenient.
  • Check SmartThings. On Wi-Fi models, the SmartThings app can run diagnostics and explain codes.
  • Hose screw on the back. Don’t remove the screw and holder that secure the drain hose to the back of the washer — Samsung says a missing holder needs service.

Safety note

Read this before any DIY fix

Unplug the washer before removing the drain filter, inlet hoses or any panel. Water inside may be hot — let it cool before draining. Keep water away from electrical outlets and cords, and mop up spills to avoid slips. Never bypass or force the door or lid lock, and don’t open the cabinet or touch internal wiring. If your washer is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with Samsung first.

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Samsung support or a qualified appliance technician if:

  • The same code returns after you’ve completed all the fix steps.
  • You see OC/OE/OF (overflow) and the washer keeps filling, or LC/LE keeps returning with no leak or suds.
  • Motor (3C), communication (AC/AE), heater or sensor codes keep coming back after a power reset.
  • The door stays locked with water inside and the washer won’t drain.
  • Water is leaking from underneath and you can’t find a loose hose.
  • You notice a burning smell, smoke, sparks, a tripped breaker, or loud grinding or banging.

Get the part

Have your model number ready — washer parts are model-specific.

Buy parts online

Samsung Parts (official) RepairClinic AppliancePartsPros

Local help

Find a parts store near me Find a washer repair technician near me

FixCode isn’t affiliated with these stores or services. Links open in a new tab.

Frequently asked questions

How do I reset a Samsung washer after an error code?

Fix the cause first, then power the washer off (or unplug it) for a few minutes, turn it back on and start a new cycle. Samsung warns that resetting clears the stored error history, so if the code keeps coming back, request service rather than resetting repeatedly.

What is the difference between 4E, 4C and nF on a Samsung washer?

They all mean the washer isn’t filling with water. Older models show 4E, newer models 4C, and some models nF. Check that both taps are fully open, hoses are connected hot-to-hot and cold-to-cold, and the inlet filters are clean.

What does nd or 5C mean on a Samsung washer?

It’s a drain error: water isn’t leaving the washer quickly enough. Check the drain hose for kinks, make sure it isn’t pushed too far into the standpipe, and clean the debris filter if your model has one.

Why does my Samsung washer say Ur?

Ur means Unbalanced Load Retry. The washer is adding water and trying to rebalance the load before spinning again. It isn’t a fault, but it makes the cycle longer. If it ends with UE or Ub, redistribute the load by hand.

Is dC a door error or an unbalanced load on a Samsung washer?

It depends on the model. On most Samsung washers dC is a door error, but on some it indicates an unbalanced load. Your user manual will confirm which applies to your model.

Sources

Samsung US support (washing machine error codes, washer reset and water-fill guides).

Last updated: . This guide was drafted with AI assistance and checked against the manufacturer sources above; items marked Verify in your manual vary by model. FixCode is not affiliated with Samsung Electronics. Samsung is a trademark of Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd.