LG Front-Load Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: · Applies to most LG front-load washers (codes and button names can vary by model) · Sources

An LG front-load washer that stops mid-cycle and flashes a two- or three-letter code is telling you exactly what it thinks went wrong. Most codes have a simple cause you can check in a few minutes — a closed water tap, a clogged drain filter, or an unbalanced load. This guide covers 14 common LG front-load washer codes: what each one means, the likely cause, and the steps to try, safest first.

Before you start

Note the exact code and your model number (on the label inside the door rim or on the back of the washer). Codes marked Verify in your manual vary between models — check your owner’s manual or LG’s support site to confirm.

LG front-load washer error code table

Always unplug the washer before removing panels, hoses or the drain filter.

CodeMeaningLikely causeStep-by-step fix
IE Water inlet error — the washer isn’t filling to the right level within the expected time. Water taps closed or only partly open; kinked or frozen inlet hose; clogged inlet filter screens; low household water pressure.
  1. Make sure both hot and cold taps behind the washer are fully open.
  2. Straighten any kinks in the inlet hoses.
  3. Unplug the washer, turn off the taps, unscrew the hoses at the washer and clean the small mesh screens.
  4. Check water pressure at a nearby faucet.
  5. Reconnect, restore water and power, and restart the cycle.
OE Drain error — water isn’t draining within the expected time. Clogged drain pump filter (coins, hair pins, lint); kinked or blocked drain hose; drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe; frozen drain line.
  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Open the small access cover at the bottom front; place towels and a shallow pan underneath. Water may be hot — let it cool.
  3. Drain the remaining water using the small drain tube (if fitted), then unscrew the pump filter and remove debris.
  4. Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages and that it isn’t jammed tightly into the standpipe.
  5. Refit the filter firmly, plug in and run a Rinse + Spin cycle.
UE / uE Unbalanced load. Lowercase uE means the washer is trying to rebalance; UE means it couldn’t, so spin is reduced or skipped. A single heavy item (bath mat, rug, comforter); a very small load; items tangled to one side; washer not level.
  1. Pause the cycle and open the door once it unlocks.
  2. Untangle and spread the items evenly around the drum.
  3. Add a couple of similar items to a single heavy item, or remove some from an overloaded drum.
  4. Check the washer is level and doesn’t rock; adjust the feet if needed.
  5. Restart the Spin cycle.
dEalso dE1, dE2, dE4 Door error — the door isn’t detected as closed or locked. Door not fully shut; clothing caught in the door or gasket; faulty door lock or switch.
  1. Open the door and check nothing is caught between the door and the rubber gasket.
  2. Close the door firmly until it clicks.
  3. Unplug for a few minutes, plug back in and restart.
  4. If it returns, the door lock or switch may need replacing — call a pro.
Verify in your manual: meaning of numbered variants
LE Locked motor error — the motor can’t turn the drum normally. Overloaded drum; an item jammed between the drum and tub; motor or motor-sensor fault.
  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Remove some of the load and check the drum turns freely by hand.
  3. Wait several minutes, plug back in and restart with a smaller load.
  4. If LE keeps returning with normal loads, call a pro (motor, sensor or wiring).
FE Overfill error — too much water has entered the washer. Faulty water inlet valve (not shutting off) or water level sensor fault.
  1. Turn off the water taps immediately.
  2. Unplug the washer.
  3. Drain the water through the drain pump filter (see OE) once it has cooled.
  4. Call a pro — this usually needs a new inlet valve or sensor.
PE Water level (pressure) sensor error. Faulty pressure sensor; kinked or blocked sensor tube; loose wiring.
  1. Unplug for a few minutes, then plug back in.
  2. Restart the cycle.
  3. If PE returns, call a pro — the sensor is inside the cabinet.
tE Heating error — usually a temperature sensor (thermistor) or heater circuit problem. Faulty thermistor or heater; wiring fault.
  1. Unplug for a few minutes, then plug back in.
  2. Try a cold-water cycle to keep washing in the meantime.
  3. If tE returns, call a pro.
Sud Too many suds detected — the washer pauses to let suds break down. Too much detergent, or non-HE detergent.
  1. Let the washer continue — it normally resumes on its own.
  2. Run an extra Rinse + Spin if clothes feel soapy.
  3. Next time use HE detergent, measured to the line (less for small or lightly soiled loads).
PF Power failure — power was interrupted during a cycle. Power cut; loose plug; tripped breaker; use of an extension cord.
  1. Check the plug is fully seated and the breaker hasn’t tripped.
  2. Plug directly into a wall outlet (no extension cord).
  3. Restart the cycle. If PF happens often without power cuts, have the outlet checked by an electrician.
CL Child Lock is on — not a fault. Buttons are locked. Child Lock was activated (sometimes accidentally).
  1. Press and hold the Child Lock button (or button pair) for about 3 seconds until CL disappears.
Verify in your manual: which button(s) control Child Lock
tCL Tub Clean reminder — not a fault. The washer has run enough cycles that it recommends a Tub Clean.
  1. Empty the drum.
  2. Run the Tub Clean cycle (with a washer cleaner if you like), or just start your next cycle — the reminder won’t stop normal washing.
FF Freeze error — water in the pump, hoses or drain is frozen. Washer installed in a cold garage, basement or utility room in freezing weather.
  1. Unplug the washer and warm the room.
  2. Wrap the taps and inlet hoses in towels soaked in warm (not boiling) water.
  3. Pour some warm water into the drum, close the door and wait an hour or two for ice to thaw.
  4. Plug in and run a Rinse + Spin to confirm it drains.
Verify in your manual: code availability varies by model
AE Water leak detected (on models with leak detection / auto shut-off). Leaking hose or connection; damaged door gasket; internal leak.
  1. Unplug the washer and turn off the water taps.
  2. Check hose connections at the taps and the back of the washer, and look for tears in the door gasket.
  3. Wipe up water and dry the area before restoring power.
  4. If you can’t find an outside leak, call a pro.
Verify in your manual: meaning and availability vary by model

Don’t see your code? Codes can differ between model years and regions. Check the troubleshooting section of your owner’s manual, or search your model number on LG’s official support site.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common washer problems, in order. They apply to most LG washers. Unplug the washer before touching hoses, filters or panels.

Washer won’t start

  1. Check the plug is fully seated in a working outlet and the breaker hasn’t tripped (test the outlet with a lamp).
  2. Close the door or lid firmly — the washer won’t start if it can’t detect it as closed.
  3. Look for a lock icon or “CL/LOC” on the display: Child/Control Lock may be on. See your manual for which button to hold.
  4. Make sure you pressed Start (on many models you must select a cycle and then press and hold Start, or press Start within a few seconds of powering on).

Washer won’t drain or clothes are soaking wet

  1. Cancel the cycle and run a Drain & Spin (or Rinse & Spin) to see whether it drains at all.
  2. Check the drain hose behind the washer for kinks or a crushed section, especially after the washer was moved.
  3. Make sure the drain hose isn’t pushed too far into the standpipe and isn’t sealed into it with tape — this can cause siphoning or slow draining.
  4. If your washer has a drain pump filter or coin trap, unplug the washer and clean it (towels and a shallow pan ready; the water may be hot). On most LG front-loaders the drain pump filter is behind a small access cover at the bottom front.
  5. Too many suds can stop a washer draining and spinning properly — use HE detergent and measure it.

Washer won’t spin

  1. Open the door or lid and spread the load evenly; add a couple of towels to a single heavy item or remove a few items from an overloaded drum.
  2. Make sure the washer has drained — most washers won’t spin with water in the tub (see “won’t drain”).
  3. Check the washer is level and doesn’t rock; adjust the feet.
  4. Check the door or lid is fully latched — spin requires it to lock.
  5. Run a Spin-only cycle on its own to test.

Washer is leaking

  1. Unplug the washer and turn off both water taps before investigating.
  2. Check the fill hose connections at the taps and at the back of the washer; hand-tighten loose couplings and replace cracked or bulging hoses.
  3. Check the drain hose is secured in the standpipe and the standpipe isn’t overflowing.
  4. On front-loaders, look for tears or trapped items in the door gasket and check that the drain pump filter cap is screwed in fully.
  5. Too many suds can push water out of the dispenser or door — use HE detergent at the recommended dose.
  6. If water is coming from underneath with no obvious source, stop using the washer and call a technician.

Washer is noisy, shaking or “walking”

  1. Rebalance the load and avoid washing a single heavy item on its own.
  2. Level the washer: adjust the feet until it doesn’t rock and tighten the lock nuts if fitted.
  3. On a new washer, confirm the shipping bolts or transit restraints were removed (see the installation guide).
  4. Check pockets for coins, keys and other hard objects; on models with a drain pump filter, a rattling or grinding sound while draining can mean an object in the filter.
  5. Loud banging, grinding or squealing that continues with an empty drum needs a technician.

Washer smells musty

  1. Run the washer’s cleaning cycle (Tub Clean, Clean Washer, Self Clean or similar) with an approved washer cleaner or bleach as your manual directs.
  2. On front-loaders, wipe the door gasket — including the folds — and leave the door ajar between loads so the drum can dry.
  3. Remove and rinse the detergent dispenser drawer and clean the drawer cavity.
  4. Clean the drain pump filter if your model has one; trapped lint and debris can smell.
  5. Use only HE detergent and don’t overdose — excess detergent and fabric softener leave residue that feeds odors.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the washer is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

  • Overloading the drum. Clothes need room to move. Packing the drum causes unbalanced loads, poor rinsing and strain on the motor and suspension.
  • Too much detergent, or the wrong kind. Modern washers use little water. Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent and measure it — excess suds can cause drain, spin and suds codes, leaks and odors.
  • Washing one heavy item alone. A single bath mat, rug or comforter bunches to one side. Add a few similar items to balance it, or use the bulky/bedding cycle.
  • Ignoring the drain hose. A kinked hose, or one pushed too far into the standpipe or taped in place, causes slow draining or siphoning.
  • Leaving taps half-closed. Partly open taps and dirty inlet screens cause slow-fill codes. Open both taps fully.
  • Never cleaning the washer. Skipping the cleaning cycle, gasket wipe-downs and filter cleaning leads to odors, residue and drain problems.
  • Resetting instead of fixing. Unplugging clears the display but not the cause. Do the checks first; repeated resets can also clear the fault history a technician would use.

Tips and tricks for LG owners

Useful LG-specific features and procedures, confirmed from LG’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

  • Run Tub Clean monthly. LG recommends running Tub Clean about once a month with the drum empty, using an oxygen-based washer cleaner — not chlorine or acidic cleaners, which LG warns can discolor or corrode the drum. The tCL message is the reminder.
  • Leave the door and drawer open. LG advises opening the door and dispenser drawer after washing so the gasket and drum dry out; some models include a door holder for this.
  • Smart Diagnosis™. If you call LG, many models can transmit diagnostic data: turn the washer on, don’t press anything else, hold the phone to the Smart Diagnosis icon and press and hold Temp for 3 seconds (button may vary by model). Wi-Fi models do this through the LG ThinQ app.
  • uE vs UE. Lowercase uE means the washer is still trying to rebalance; uppercase UE means it gave up and limited the spin.

Safety note

Read this before any DIY fix

Unplug the washer before removing the drain filter, inlet hoses or any panel. Water inside may be hot — let it cool before draining. Keep water away from electrical outlets and cords, and mop up spills to avoid slips. Never bypass or force the door lock, and don’t open the cabinet or touch internal wiring. If your washer is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with LG first.

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call an LG-authorized service center or a qualified appliance technician if:

  • The same code returns after you’ve completed all the fix steps.
  • You see FE (overfill), PE (water level sensor) or tE (heating) more than once — these almost always need a part replaced.
  • LE keeps appearing with normal-sized loads, or the drum won’t turn by hand.
  • The door stays locked with water inside and the washer won’t drain.
  • Water is leaking from underneath the washer and you can’t find a loose hose.
  • You notice a burning smell, smoke, sparks, a tripped breaker, or loud grinding or banging.
  • The fix requires opening the cabinet or replacing internal parts (pump, valve, motor, control board).

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Frequently asked questions

How do I reset an LG front-load washer after an error code?

Fix the underlying cause first (for example, open the water taps for IE or clean the drain pump filter for OE). Then unplug the washer for a few minutes, plug it back in, and start a new cycle. Resetting without fixing the cause usually brings the same code back.

What is the most common LG washer error code?

UE (unbalanced load), OE (drain error) and IE (water inlet error) are among the codes owners see most often. All three usually have simple causes you can check yourself: an uneven load, a clogged drain pump filter or kinked drain hose, or a closed water tap or clogged inlet screen.

Where is the drain pump filter on an LG front-load washer?

On most LG front-load washers the drain pump filter is behind a small access cover at the bottom front of the machine, usually on the lower left or right. Unplug the washer, place towels and a shallow pan underneath, drain the remaining water using the small drain tube if your model has one, then unscrew the filter counter-clockwise and clean it. Check your owner's manual for the exact location on your model.

Is it safe to keep using my LG washer with an error code?

Informational codes like CL (child lock) or tCL (tub clean reminder) are not faults. For codes such as FE (overfill), AE (leak), LE (motor locked) or tE (heating), stop using the washer until the cause is fixed. Repeated faults can lead to leaks or further damage.

Why does my LG washer show uE in lowercase?

A lowercase uE generally means the washer has detected an unbalanced load and is trying to redistribute it on its own. If it cannot correct the imbalance, it shows UE and limits or skips the spin. Redistribute the load by hand and restart the spin cycle.

Sources

LG USA support help library (front-load washer error codes, Tub Clean and Smart Diagnosis articles); LG front-load washer owner’s manuals.

Last updated: . This guide was drafted with AI assistance and checked against the manufacturer sources above; items marked Verify in your manual vary by model. FixCode is not affiliated with LG Electronics. LG is a trademark of LG Corp.