Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: · Applies to Whirlpool top-load HE and front-load washers with a display (some codes are top-load or front-load only — noted under each code) · Sources

Whirlpool washers use two kinds of codes: plain-language ones such as LF, Sud or lid, and system codes in an F# E# format that alternate on the display. This guide covers 17 Whirlpool washer codes for top-load HE and front-load models, with each code marked by washer type.

Before you start

Note the exact code (F-codes alternate, e.g. “F8” then “E1”) and your model number — on top-loaders it’s usually under the lid or on the back; on front-loaders inside the door frame. Codes marked Verify in your manual vary by model.

Whirlpool washer error code table

Always unplug the washer before removing hoses or the drain pump filter.

CodeMeaningLikely causeStep-by-step fix
F8 E1 / LF / Lo FLboth front- and top-load Long fill / low water flow — the washer isn’t detecting enough incoming water. Taps closed or partly open; kinked fill hoses; only one hose connected on top-loaders that need both; anti-flood devices in the supply line; drain hose too deep, causing siphoning.
  1. Open both hot and cold taps fully — Whirlpool top-load HE models need both supplies connected and turned on.
  2. Straighten any kinks in the fill hoses and remove any anti-flood/flood-safe device in the supply line.
  3. Check the drain hose goes no more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe and isn’t taped in.
  4. Front-load: clear the code by pressing Pause/Cancel twice and Power once. If the washer starts an automatic drain routine, wait about 10 minutes before pressing buttons.
F9 E1 / drnF9 E1 front-load · drn top-load Long drain — the washer is taking too long to drain (on front-loaders, typically over 8 minutes). Kinked or clogged drain hose; drain hose too far into the standpipe; clogged drain pump filter (some models); excess suds.
  1. Straighten the drain hose and check for clogs.
  2. Use the U-shaped hose form so only about 4.5 inches of hose is in the standpipe; standpipe height should be within the range in your installation guide (about 39–96 inches).
  3. Front-load: clean the drain pump filter if your model has one, and clean the small drain holes inside the door seal.
  4. Use HE detergent — excess suds slow draining.
F5 E2 Door or lid won’t lock. Clothing or another item blocking the door or lid; laundry sticking out past the opening; detergent build-up at the lid lock.
  1. Open the door or lid and remove anything in the way; reduce an overfilled load.
  2. Close it firmly until it latches.
  3. Clear the code (front-load: Pause/Cancel twice, then Power).
  4. Still showing? Unplug for 5 minutes, then restart. If it returns, schedule service.
LdLtop-load Top-load: lid is not locking. An item in the load pressing on the lid; detergent build-up around the lid lock.
  1. Push down items directly under the lid.
  2. Wipe residue away from the lid lock area.
  3. Close the lid and restart.
LdUtop-load Top-load: lid can’t unlock. Something on top of the lid (for example a laundry basket) preventing it from unlocking.
  1. Remove everything from the top of the washer.
  2. Wait for the lid to unlock, or restart the cycle.
lidtop-load Top-load: the lid was left open. Lid opened during the cycle.
  1. Close the lid to clear the display.
  2. If it stays open more than about 10 minutes the cycle resets and drains — restart the cycle without adding more detergent.
Sud / Sd Too many suds — the washer extends rinsing and pauses to break them down. Non-HE or too much detergent; thick “no-splash” chlorine bleach; restricted drain hose or standpipe.
  1. Let the washer finish — the pauses and extra rinses are normal.
  2. Use HE detergent, measured.
  3. Use regular liquid bleach rather than thickened no-splash types.
  4. Check the drain hose isn’t kinked or clogged.
Ofbtop-load Top-load: load out of balance; the washer is trying to correct it. Single heavy items; items not spread around the washplate; washer not level; adding wet items mid-cycle.
  1. Let it try to correct itself first.
  2. If it stops with the dial flashing, redistribute the load in loose heaps around the washplate, close the lid and press Start/Pause.
  3. Balance single bulky items with a few towels and use the Bulky/Sheets cycle for large items.
OLtop-load Top-load: the load is too large. The washer drains any water and detergent. Overfilled basket.
  1. Remove several items.
  2. Add fresh HE detergent, close the lid and press Start/Pause.
HCtop-load Top-load: the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed (shown at the end of the cycle). Hot hose on the cold inlet and vice versa.
  1. Turn off the water and unplug the washer.
  2. Swap the hoses to the correct inlets.
  3. Run another cycle to confirm the code is gone.
F7 E1front-load Front-load: motor speed sensing error — the motor can’t reach the right speed. Shipping bolts not removed on a new washer; overloaded drum.
  1. Check all shipping bolts were removed (see installation guide).
  2. Reduce the load.
  3. Clear the code (Pause/Cancel twice, Power once) and restart. If it returns, schedule service.
F8 E2front-load, select models Front-load (select models): problem with the dispenser system. Detergent drawer or bulk-dispense cartridge clogged with detergent.
  1. Remove and clean the detergent drawer or cartridge.
  2. Restart the cycle.
LOC / LC Control Lock is on — not a fault. Control Lock activated.
  1. Touch (or press and hold, on some models) the Control Lock button to turn it off.
Verify in your manual: which button and how long to hold
Intfront-load Front-load: the cycle was paused or cancelled; the washer may spend 20–30 minutes stopping and draining. Cycle interrupted.
  1. Wait for draining to finish.
  2. Press Pause/Cancel twice and Power once to clear.
  3. Still showing? Unplug for 5 minutes.
rL / F34 Items were detected in the drum during the Clean Washer cycle. Laundry left in the drum.
  1. Remove everything from the drum.
  2. Restart Clean Washer.
PF Power failure — the cycle was interrupted by a power cut. Outage, unplugging or a tripped breaker.
  1. Press and hold Start to resume, or press Power to clear the display.
Other F# E# System error — the control has detected a fault needing attention. Varies: sensor, motor, control or wiring fault.
  1. Top-load: press Start/Pause once to clear, then again to restart.
  2. Front-load: unplug for 5 minutes, reconnect, reselect the cycle and press Start.
  3. If the code persists, schedule service and note the exact code.

Don’t see your code? Whirlpool notes its lists don’t cover every model. Check the error code section of your Use and Care guide, or search your model number on Whirlpool’s product help site.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common washer problems, in order. They apply to most Whirlpool washers. Unplug the washer before touching hoses, filters or panels.

Washer won’t start

  1. Check the plug is fully seated in a working outlet and the breaker hasn’t tripped (test the outlet with a lamp).
  2. Close the door or lid firmly — the washer won’t start if it can’t detect it as closed.
  3. Look for a lock icon or “CL/LOC” on the display: Child/Control Lock may be on. See your manual for which button to hold.
  4. Make sure you pressed Start (on many models you must select a cycle and then press and hold Start, or press Start within a few seconds of powering on).

Washer won’t drain or clothes are soaking wet

  1. Cancel the cycle and run a Drain & Spin (or Rinse & Spin) to see whether it drains at all.
  2. Check the drain hose behind the washer for kinks or a crushed section, especially after the washer was moved.
  3. Make sure the drain hose isn’t pushed too far into the standpipe and isn’t sealed into it with tape — this can cause siphoning or slow draining. Whirlpool specifies no more than about 4.5 inches of hose in the standpipe.
  4. If your washer has a drain pump filter or coin trap, unplug the washer and clean it (towels and a shallow pan ready; the water may be hot). Not all Whirlpool washers have a user-cleanable pump filter — check your manual.
  5. Too many suds can stop a washer draining and spinning properly — use HE detergent and measure it.

Washer won’t spin

  1. Open the door or lid and spread the load evenly; add a couple of towels to a single heavy item or remove a few items from an overloaded drum.
  2. Make sure the washer has drained — most washers won’t spin with water in the tub (see “won’t drain”).
  3. Check the washer is level and doesn’t rock; adjust the feet.
  4. Check the door or lid is fully latched — spin requires it to lock.
  5. Run a Spin-only cycle on its own to test.

Washer is leaking

  1. Unplug the washer and turn off both water taps before investigating.
  2. Check the fill hose connections at the taps and at the back of the washer; hand-tighten loose couplings and replace cracked or bulging hoses.
  3. Check the drain hose is secured in the standpipe and the standpipe isn’t overflowing.
  4. On front-loaders, look for tears or trapped items in the door gasket and check that the drain pump filter cap is screwed in fully.
  5. Too many suds can push water out of the dispenser or door — use HE detergent at the recommended dose.
  6. If water is coming from underneath with no obvious source, stop using the washer and call a technician.

Washer is noisy, shaking or “walking”

  1. Rebalance the load and avoid washing a single heavy item on its own.
  2. Level the washer: adjust the feet until it doesn’t rock and tighten the lock nuts if fitted.
  3. On a new washer, confirm the shipping bolts or transit restraints were removed (see the installation guide).
  4. Check pockets for coins, keys and other hard objects; on models with a drain pump filter, a rattling or grinding sound while draining can mean an object in the filter.
  5. Loud banging, grinding or squealing that continues with an empty drum needs a technician.

Washer smells musty

  1. Run the washer’s cleaning cycle (Tub Clean, Clean Washer, Self Clean or similar) with an approved washer cleaner or bleach as your manual directs.
  2. On front-loaders, wipe the door gasket — including the folds — and leave the door ajar between loads so the drum can dry.
  3. Remove and rinse the detergent dispenser drawer and clean the drawer cavity.
  4. Clean the drain pump filter if your model has one; trapped lint and debris can smell.
  5. Use only HE detergent and don’t overdose — excess detergent and fabric softener leave residue that feeds odors.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the washer is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

  • Overloading the drum. Clothes need room to move. Packing the drum causes unbalanced loads, poor rinsing and strain on the motor and suspension.
  • Too much detergent, or the wrong kind. Modern washers use little water. Use HE (high-efficiency) detergent and measure it — excess suds can cause drain, spin and suds codes, leaks and odors.
  • Washing one heavy item alone. A single bath mat, rug or comforter bunches to one side. Add a few similar items to balance it, or use the bulky/bedding cycle.
  • Ignoring the drain hose. A kinked hose, or one pushed too far into the standpipe or taped in place, causes slow draining or siphoning.
  • Leaving taps half-closed. Partly open taps and dirty inlet screens cause slow-fill codes. Open both taps fully.
  • Never cleaning the washer. Skipping the cleaning cycle, gasket wipe-downs and filter cleaning leads to odors, residue and drain problems.
  • Resetting instead of fixing. Unplugging clears the display but not the cause. Do the checks first; repeated resets can also clear the fault history a technician would use.

Tips and tricks for Whirlpool owners

Useful Whirlpool-specific features and procedures, confirmed from Whirlpool’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

  • Clear a front-load code without unplugging. Press Pause/Cancel twice and then Power once.
  • Drain hose depth matters. Whirlpool specifies no more than 4.5 inches of drain hose in the standpipe, using the U-shaped hose form — deeper insertion can siphon water out and cause long-fill codes.
  • Top-load HE models need both taps. The washer senses both supplies; with only one connected it can report a fill error, lock the lid and pump out for about 8 minutes.
  • Skip anti-flood devices. Whirlpool recommends against flood-safe/anti-flood hoses and controls on front-loaders because they restrict flow.
  • Clean the door-seal drain holes. Front-loaders have small drain holes inside the door seal; if they clog, the washer can drain slowly.
  • Use the Clean Washer cycle with an empty drum. Items left inside trigger rL; run it monthly or as your manual recommends.

Safety note

Read this before any DIY fix

Unplug the washer before removing the drain filter, inlet hoses or any panel. Water inside may be hot — let it cool before draining. Keep water away from electrical outlets and cords, and mop up spills to avoid slips. Never bypass or force the door or lid lock, and don’t open the cabinet or touch internal wiring. If your washer is under warranty, DIY repairs beyond basic cleaning may affect coverage — check with Whirlpool first.

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call Whirlpool service or a qualified appliance technician if:

  • The same code returns after you’ve completed all the fix steps.
  • An F# E# system code keeps coming back after a reset.
  • F7 E1 continues with normal loads and shipping bolts removed.
  • The lid or door stays locked with water inside and the washer won’t drain.
  • Water is leaking from underneath and you can’t find a loose hose.
  • You notice a burning smell, smoke, sparks, a tripped breaker, or loud grinding or banging.

Get the part

Have your model number ready — washer parts are model-specific.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I clear an error code on a Whirlpool washer?

On front-load models, press Pause/Cancel twice and then Power once. On top-load models, press Start/Pause once to clear the code and again to restart. If that doesn’t work, unplug the washer for 5 minutes.

What does F8 E1 or LF mean on a Whirlpool washer?

The washer is taking too long to fill or isn’t sensing enough incoming water. Open both taps fully, straighten the fill hoses, and make sure the drain hose isn’t inserted more than about 4.5 inches into the standpipe, which can cause siphoning.

What does F9 E1 mean on a Whirlpool washer?

F9 E1 means draining is taking longer than expected, usually more than 8 minutes. Check the drain hose for kinks or clogs, clean the drain pump filter if your model has one, and use HE detergent to avoid excess suds.

Why does my Whirlpool washer say Sud?

Too many suds were detected. The washer adds rinses and pauses to break them down. Use HE detergent in the right amount and avoid thickened no-splash bleach.

What does Ofb mean on a Whirlpool top-load washer?

The load is out of balance and the washer is trying to correct it. If it stops, redistribute the load evenly around the washplate, close the lid and press Start/Pause.

Sources

Whirlpool Product Help (error codes for front-load and top-load HE washers, F8 E1, F9 E1 and F5 E2 articles).

Last updated: . This guide was drafted with AI assistance and checked against the manufacturer sources above; items marked Verify in your manual vary by model. FixCode is not affiliated with Whirlpool Corporation. Whirlpool is a trademark of Whirlpool Corporation.