LG Refrigerator Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Last updated: October 5, 2026 · Applies to LG French door, side-by-side, bottom-freezer and top-freezer refrigerators sold in the US (codes may start or end with E, Er or r depending on model) · Sources

LG refrigerators show codes such as Er FF or E rF — the letters after the prefix identify the part (FF = freezer fan, rF = refrigerator fan, dH = defrost). Fan codes are often caused by ice and can be cleared by defrosting; sensor and defrost codes need service. This guide covers 12 LG refrigerator codes and code groups from LG’s US support library.

LG refrigerator error code table

Move food to a cooler before unplugging for a defrost. Plug the fridge directly into a wall outlet — not a power strip.

Don’t see your code? Check LG’s US refrigerator error-code list for your fridge type, or your owner’s manual. LG’s 24/7 chat support can also identify codes.

Troubleshooting without an error code

No code on the display, but something’s not right? Work through these safe checks for the most common refrigerator problems, in order. They apply to most LG refrigerators. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning coils, moving it or touching the water line.

Refrigerator not cooling (or freezer not freezing)

1. Check the display isn’t in a showroom/demo or “cooling off” mode — the lights and display work but nothing gets cold. See the codes above and your manual for how to turn it off.
2. Check the temperature settings. The FDA recommends keeping the refrigerator at 40°F (4°C) or below and the freezer at 0°F (−18°C).
3. Make sure food isn’t blocking the air vents inside the fresh-food and freezer compartments.
4. Check the doors close and seal fully — overfilled door bins or a shelf out of place can hold a door open slightly.
5. Clean the condenser coils (unplug first; see your manual for their location) and leave the clearance your manual specifies around the fridge so it can release heat.
6. After a power outage, a move or a new installation, allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to settle.

Freezer is frosting up

1. Check that the freezer door or drawer closes fully and isn’t blocked by packages or an ice bin out of position.
2. Inspect the door gaskets for tears or gaps, and wipe them clean — a sticky or torn gasket lets in humid air.
3. Check the fridge is level (or tilted slightly back, if your manual says so) so the doors swing closed on their own.
4. Limit how long doors are held open, and let hot food cool before freezing it.
5. Heavy frost on the back wall or evaporator cover, especially with poor cooling, usually points to a defrost-system problem that needs a technician. A manual defrost (unplugged, doors open) can get you by temporarily.

Ice maker not making ice

1. Make sure the ice maker is switched on — check the Ice On/Off setting, switch or shut-off arm.
2. Check the household water supply valve to the fridge is fully open and the supply line behind the fridge isn’t kinked.
3. Check the water filter is seated correctly; a clogged or old filter slows the water flow. Replace it if it’s due.
4. Check the freezer is cold enough — the ice maker needs the freezer near 0°F (−18°C) to make ice at a normal rate.
5. Empty the ice bin if cubes have fused into clumps that jam the ice maker or dispenser.
6. On a new installation, allow about 24 hours for the first ice, and discard the first few batches.

Water dispenser not working or slow

1. Check the water supply valve is fully open and the supply line isn’t kinked when the fridge is pushed back.
2. Check the water filter is fully locked in. After installing a new filter, dispense water for a few minutes to flush air out of the system (your manual gives the exact amount).
3. Check Control/Child Lock isn’t turned on.
4. Low household water pressure slows dispensing and ice making — your manual lists the minimum pressure.
5. If water stops after the freezer was set very cold, the water line in the door may have frozen; a technician can confirm and thaw it safely.

Refrigerator is noisy

1. Many sounds are normal: humming or whooshing from the compressor and fans, clicks from the defrost timer or valves, gurgling refrigerant, a sizzle during defrost, a buzz while the water valve fills the ice maker, and ice dropping into the bin.
2. Check the fridge is level and stable, and that it isn’t touching the wall, cabinets or another appliance.
3. Remove items stored on top of the fridge that can rattle.
4. A rattling sound from the bottom can be a loose drain pan or grille; a scraping or ticking fan noise can mean frost is touching a fan blade (see the fan codes above).
5. Loud grinding, banging or a very loud compressor that runs constantly needs a technician.

Refrigerator is leaking water

1. Check the water supply line connection behind the fridge for drips, and make sure the water filter is fully seated.
2. Water pooling under the crisper drawers or on the fridge floor often means the defrost drain is clogged or frozen; see your manual for how to clear it, or call a technician.
3. Check the ice dispenser chute and door bins for melted ice.
4. Check the fridge is level or tilted as your manual specifies so condensation drains properly.
5. If you can’t find the source, turn off the water supply valve to the fridge and call a technician.

Common mistakes

Many “faults” are caused by how the refrigerator is loaded, installed or maintained. Avoid these and you’ll see far fewer codes:

• Blocking the vents. Packing food against the vents stops cold air circulating, causing warm spots, frozen produce and fan or temperature alerts.
• Overfilling door bins. Heavy or overfilled bins can stop a door sealing, which lets in warm, humid air and causes frost and door alarms.
• Never cleaning the condenser coils. Dusty coils make the compressor work harder and can lead to poor cooling. Check your manual for location and cleaning interval.
• Forgetting the water filter. An old or badly seated filter slows the dispenser and ice maker. Use the filter your model specifies and replace it on schedule.
• Chipping ice with sharp tools. Never use a knife or ice pick to remove frost — you can puncture a refrigerant line. Let it melt instead.
• Pushing the fridge back too hard. Crushing or kinking the water line, or leaving too little clearance for airflow, causes ice-maker, dispenser and cooling problems.
• Unplugging repeatedly to clear codes. Some manufacturers ask you not to unplug the fridge unless directed, because it can make the fault harder for a technician to diagnose.

Tips and tricks for LG owners

Useful LG-specific features and procedures, confirmed from LG’s own support pages and manuals. Exact buttons vary by model, so check your manual.

• Turn off Demo mode. If the panel lights up but nothing cools and you see OF F, hold REFRIGERATOR + ICE PLUS for 5 seconds with a door open (LG’s US method; buttons vary by model).
• Fan codes often mean ice. Er FF can be caused by frost locking the fan. LG’s fix is to unplug and leave the doors open for at least 8 hours, then allow 24–48 hours to cool down.
• Prevent frost from coming back. LG says to check door gaskets, keep vents clear, and make sure the fridge is level and the doors close completely.
• No power strips. LG’s reset steps specify plugging the fridge directly into a wall outlet.
• Read the code prefix. E, Er and r are just prefixes — look up the letters that follow.

Safety note

When to call a pro

The steps above are limited to safe, user-level checks. Call LG service or a qualified refrigeration technician if:

• Er dH, sensor (FS, rS, dS), CO, CH or CL codes appear.
• Fan codes return after a full defrost.
• Frost keeps building up after leveling and checking the gaskets.
• The fridge isn’t cooling and isn’t in Demo mode.
• The compressor runs constantly or makes loud knocking or grinding noises.

Frequently asked questions

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