Samsung Washer SC Error Code: What It Means and How to Fix It

By Dan Mercer · Published October 5, 2026 · Updated October 6, 2026 · Codes covered: SC, 5C, 5E, nd, SE, 1 5C · Sources

An SC code on a Samsung washer means the washer isn't draining. Water is leaving too slowly or not at all. Samsung says incorrect drain hose installation is the most common reason for drain problems and service is rarely needed, so start with the hose and, on front loaders, the pump filter.

SC is the same code as 5C. The "5" on a washer's display can look like an "S". Depending on your model, it may also show as 5E, nd, SE, or 1 5C. They all mean the same thing.

This 3-minute fix saved 0 homeowners a technician visit this month.

What the SC code means

Samsung calls this a "No drain error": water is not draining from the washer at the correct speed, or at all. Samsung's US error-code list groups nd, 5E, SE, 5C, SC, and 1 5C together, so whichever version you see, the fixes are the same.

Front loaders vs. top loaders. The causes are much the same, but only front loaders have a pump filter (also called the debris filter) you can open yourself. Samsung says top loaders don't have a removable pump filter.

Look-alike codes that mean something else:

• OC, OE, 0C, 0E: an overflow error, meaning there's too much water in the washer. Samsung points you to the same drain guide for this one.
• 4C, 4E, nF: a not filling error. A drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe or mounted too low can siphon water out as the washer fills, which causes 4C rather than SC.
• Sd, SUd, 5d: too many suds. That's a detergent warning, not a drain fault.

Likely causes (most common first)

1. A clogged pump (debris) filter (front loaders). Lint, coins, hair ties and small socks collect here. Samsung UK says a blocked filter or kinked drain hose is the most common reason for this code.
2. A kinked, crushed or clogged drain hose, often after the washer has been pushed back or has moved during a spin.
3. A drain hose installed wrong. It may be pushed too far into the standpipe, sealed airtight, mounted too low or too high, or fitted with an extension kit.
4. A frozen drain hose in an unheated garage, porch or basement.
5. A blocked household drain, such as a clogged standpipe or laundry sink.
6. The washer isn't level. Samsung lists this as the first thing to check.
7. A failed drain pump, or a wiring or control fault. Samsung Gulf notes that if the basic checks don't clear it, the drain pump or an electrical issue may be the cause.

How to fix it, step by step

Caution: if you recently ran a hot cycle (Sanitize, Pure Cycle or Self Clean), Samsung says to wait about an hour for the water to cool before you drain it.

1. Turn off the washer and check that it's level. Samsung says a washer that isn't level may not drain correctly.
2. Inspect the drain hose. Follow it from the back of the washer to the drain and straighten any kinks or bends. Samsung's US guide says the hose should:
   • go no less than 6 inches and no more than 8 inches into the standpipe or sink
   • be secured so it can't slip down farther
   • not form an airtight seal in the standpipe
   • not be kinked, bent or damaged
   • sit at least 18 inches high (24 inches for a wash basin), and no higher than 96 inches (35 inches for a wash basin)
   • not use a drain hose extension kit
   • Heights vary by model. For example, one Samsung top-load manual calls for a standpipe or laundry tub between 39 and 96 inches. Follow your own manual.
3. Leave the drain hose holder alone. Don't remove the screw and holder that keep the hose against the back of the washer. If the screw is missing, put it back with any screw that fits. Samsung says a missing holder needs service.
4. Check for ice. If the washer is somewhere cold, make sure the drain hose isn't frozen. Let the room warm up before trying again.
5. Test your home's drain. Take the hose out of the standpipe and hold it over a bucket or sink while the washer drains. If water flows out fine there, the standpipe or house drain is the blockage, not the washer.
6. Clean the pump filter (front loaders only).
   • Unplug the washer.
   • Open the small access panel near the bottom front. Press the top or center of the panel to open it.
   • Put down towels and a low container, such as an oil drain pan.
   • Pull out the small rubber drain hose, twist off its cap and let the water drain. The cap seals tightly, so it may take some effort.
   • Once the water is out, twist the filter counterclockwise to remove it. On some models you push in and twist, like a medicine-bottle cap.
   • Brush the filter clean with a soft toothbrush. Look into the housing and make sure the pump impeller is clear.
   • Twist the filter back in clockwise until it's secure, recap the drain hose, clip it back in place and close the panel.
7. Restart and watch it drain. Turn the washer on and start a cycle. Samsung says the washer should drain at the beginning of the test cycle. If it doesn't, the problem is likely inside the washer.
8. Stop if it still won't drain. If the hose and filter are clear and SC comes back, see "Test the part" below or request service.

To keep SC from coming back, Samsung recommends cleaning the pump filter at least once a month, or about every 40 washes, whichever comes first.

Test the part

If the hose, filter and house drain are all clear, the most likely failed part is the drain pump. Here's a basic check with the washer unplugged.

1. Unplug the washer and turn off both water taps. Drain any water first (see step 6 above). On top loaders, which have no pump filter, you may need to bail out the tub.
2. Spin the impeller (front loaders). With the filter out, shine a light into the housing and gently turn the impeller with a gloved finger or a plastic tool. iFixit says it should turn with a stiff, step-by-step, jerky feel. If it spins freely and loosely, or is cracked or jammed, the pump likely needs replacing.
3. Reach the pump's wiring. Depending on your model, this may mean removing the back or lower front panel. Some top loaders need to be carefully tipped. Get help, since washers are heavy, check your manual, and watch for sharp edges.
4. Photograph the wires, then pull the connector off by its housing, not the wire.
5. Check the pump coil. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting and touch the probes to the pump's two terminals.

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

1. Don't chase an exact number. A reading near zero or OL is a clear fail. A reading in range only shows the coil is intact. A pump can still be weak or jammed and pass this test.

If the pump passes and SC still appears, stop here. The next checks (the water-level sensor, wiring, and whether the control board powers the pump) involve live-voltage testing, so leave them to a technician.

Safety notes

When to call a pro

Call Samsung or a qualified appliance technician if:

• SC keeps coming back after you've cleaned the filter and checked the hose and house drain.
• The washer doesn't drain at the start of a test cycle, and you can't hear the pump running.
• The pump impeller is broken, or the pump coil reads open (OL).
• The drain hose holder on the back of the washer is missing.
• You see burnt or damaged wiring.
• Your washer is under warranty. Check the terms before opening any panels.

Samsung US support is available at samsung.com/us/support/service or 1-800-SAMSUNG (1-800-726-7864).

FAQ

Related

• SC in the Samsung washer error codes table
• OC, OE, OF – overflow (look-alike code)
• 4C, 4E, nF – not filling (look-alike code)
• Sd, SUd, SUdS – excess suds (look-alike code)
• Samsung Washer 4C Error Code
• Samsung Washer dC Error Code
• Samsung Washer SUd Error Code
• Samsung Washer UE Error Code
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• All washer error code guides