Whirlpool Washer F5 E3 Error Code: What It Means and How to Fix It

Last updated: October 5, 2026 · Codes covered: F5 E3 · Sources

F5 E3 on a Whirlpool washer is a lock error. On a front-loader, Whirlpool says the door isn't locking properly. On a top-loader, it points to the lid lock, usually a lid that won't unlock. It's often something simple, like clothing in the way or a control that needs a reset. If not, the lock assembly or its wiring probably needs a repair.

Maytag and Amana washers use the same F5 E3 code, and the fixes below apply to them too.

What the F5 E3 code means

Whirlpool calls F5 E3 a door lock error. The washer won't run (or release the door or lid) until the control confirms the lock is in the right position.

What it means depends on your washer type:

• Front-load washers: Whirlpool's help page says the door is not locking properly. Make sure the door is completely closed, and check that nothing (clothing, shipping material) is blocking the latch.
• Top-load washers: Whirlpool lists F5 E3 as a lock error on its top-load pages too, and recommends a control reset. Sears PartsDirect's guide for Whirlpool top-loaders is more specific. It calls F5 E3 a lid unlock fault, meaning the lid lock didn't release when it should have.

Maytag's Product Help has the same F5 E3 articles for front-load and top-load washers, with the same front-load "door is not locking properly" explanation. Amana's Product Help lists F5E3 for its top-load washers as well.

Look-alike codes that mean something else:

• F5 E2 means the washer can't engage the lid lock, usually because something is in the lid lock area. It's covered in our Whirlpool washer guide.
• LdL (top-load) means the lid isn't locking. Whirlpool says to check for items directly under the lid and for detergent buildup around the lock.
• LdU (top-load) means the lid can't unlock. Whirlpool says objects on the lid, such as a laundry basket, can prevent it.

Model details vary, so check the error code section in your user manual.

Likely causes (most common first)

1. Something blocking the door or latch. Clothing caught in the door, a sock in the latch, or leftover shipping material on a new washer.
2. Weight on a top-loader's lid. A laundry basket or detergent bottle on the lid can stop the lock from releasing.
3. Door or lid not fully closed. It may look shut but not quite latch.
4. Detergent or lint buildup around the lock or striker, which can stop the lock from sliding freely. Whirlpool recommends keeping the door area clean of soap buildup.
5. A control that needs a reset. Whirlpool's first fix for F5 E3 is cycling the power.
6. Damaged strike, hinge, or lid that stops the lock lining up.
7. Failed lock assembly, loose wiring, or a control fault. If the simple checks don't help, the lock assembly (or its wiring to the control) is the usual suspect.

How to fix it, step by step

Work through these in order and try a cycle after each step.

1. Clear the lid (top-loaders). Remove baskets, bottles, and anything else on it.
2. Check the door or lid area. Look for clothing caught in the door seal or under the lid, and for anything in the latch or strike. On a new washer, make sure all packing material is removed.
3. Close it firmly until it latches, without slamming.
4. Clean the lock area. With the washer unplugged, wipe soap and lint off the latch, strike, and the area around the lock with a damp cloth.
5. Reset the control. Whirlpool says to unplug the washer (or switch off its breaker) for 5 minutes, then plug it back in and start a new cycle.
6. If a front-load door is stuck locked at the end of a cycle:
   • On models with a Fresh Hold cycle, the door stays locked until you press Cancel. That's normal.
   • Otherwise, Whirlpool says to unplug the washer for about 2 minutes, plug it back in, and run a Drain and Spin cycle. The door should unlock when it finishes.
   • Never force the door. If there's water in the drum, it must drain first.
7. If a top-load lid stays locked, make sure nothing is on the lid, then repeat the reset in step 5. Don't pry the lid open, since that can break the lock and the lid.
8. Look at the striker and hinges. Check that the hook on the door, or the strike on the lid, isn't bent, cracked, or loose, and that the lid isn't warped.
9. Stop here if F5 E3 keeps coming back. The lock assembly, its wiring, or the control is the likely cause. See "Test the part" below, or call a pro.

Test the part

The part most likely to have failed is the door lock assembly (front-load) or lid lock assembly (top-load). It contains a small solenoid or motor that moves the lock, plus a switch that tells the control whether it's locked. These are basic unplugged checks.

1. Unplug the washer. Pull the plug or switch off the breaker. If you'll be moving the washer, turn off both water taps too.
2. Reach the lock. On most models that means removing the top panel. Sears PartsDirect describes lifting the top panel on Whirlpool top-loaders to reach the lid lock. The steps vary by model, so check your manual or tech sheet, and watch for sharp sheet-metal edges.
3. If the lid is stuck locked, Sears PartsDirect's advice is to try freeing the lock by hand with the power off, without breaking the lock or strike. If it won't move easily, stop and call a pro.
4. Inspect the lock. Look for cracks, a broken or bent strike, melted plastic, detergent buildup, or anything stuck in the mechanism.
5. Check the wiring. Look for loose connectors, bent or burnt pins, and chafed wires between the lock and the control.
6. Photograph the wires, then pull the connector off by its housing, not the wires. Use the wiring diagram on your tech sheet to find the right terminals.
7. Check for continuity. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting and touch the probes to the lock's coil terminals. Some resistance means continuity, which is good. Infinity or "OL" (open) means the coil has failed and the lock assembly needs replacing.
8. Don't rely on a number from the internet. The correct reading varies by model, so compare against your washer's tech sheet if it lists one.

A lock can pass this test and still be bad, because the switch inside can fail on its own. If the lock looks fine, shows continuity, and F5 E3 keeps coming back, stop and call a pro. Never power the lock directly, jumper it, or bypass it. Checking voltage at the lock or control is a technician's job.

Safety notes

When to call a pro

Call Whirlpool (or Maytag or Amana) service or a qualified appliance technician if:

• F5 E3 comes back after you've cleared the area, cleaned the lock, and reset the washer.
• The door or lid stays locked after a reset and a Drain and Spin.
• The lock clicks repeatedly but never locks or unlocks.
• You see cracked parts, a broken strike, or damaged wiring.
• The lock shows an open circuit, or you can't reach it safely.
• Your washer is under warranty. Check the terms before you open any panels.

Whirlpool US support: 1-866-698-2538 (as listed on Whirlpool Product Help). Maytag US support: 1-800-344-1274 (as listed on Maytag Product Help). Amana owners can get help through Amana's Product Help site.

FAQ

Related

• F5 E3 in the Whirlpool washer error codes table
• F5 E3 in the Maytag washer error codes table
• F5 E3 in the Amana washer error codes table
• F5 E2 – door/lid lock (look-alike code)
• LdL – lid not locking (look-alike code)
• LdU – lid can’t unlock (look-alike code)
• F5 E2 – door/lid lock (look-alike code)
• LdL – lid not locking (look-alike code)
• LdU – lid can’t unlock (look-alike code)
• F5 E2 – door/lid lock (look-alike code)
• LdL – lid not locking (look-alike code)
• LdU – lid can’t unlock (look-alike code)
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